![]() The picture below shows the difference between the standard dc2tog decrease and an invisible decrease crochet stitch. THE IVISIBLE STITCH HOW TOIf you’re new to crocheting in the front loops of your crochet, you can find out more in our guide on how to crochet in the front and back loops. ![]() The difference is subtle and not immediately obvious, but once you get a few rounds in you’ll start to notice the difference. The beauty of the invisible decrease crochet stitch is that it’s… well, almost invisible! It works by crocheting in the front loops only, which have a bit more flexibility than if you go under both loops – this means those front loops can rise up a bit and almost mimic the strands that you would see in a normal dc stitch. ![]() The main reason for using an invisible decrease crochet stitch is that a standard dc2tog decrease is effectively stretching two stitches into becoming one, which can leave a slight hole where it’s trying to bridge the gap to the next stitch. If you already know how to decrease in crochet stitches with the standard dc2tog crochet stitch, then you’re already halfway there – the invisible decrease crochet stitch is just an ever so slightly different way of doing this that produces a neater result!īut what’s wrong with doing a dc2tog… well, absolutely nothing really, it’s still the fundamental decrease stitch, and you would still want to use it on any projects where you’d turn the work. THE IVISIBLE STITCH PROFESSIONALI find it’s better to stitch more than necessary than not enough.When it comes to amigurumi, there are lots of little tricks that professional designers use to make their crochet look picture perfect, and one of the easiest techniques is the crochet invisible decrease. I use this stitch on all long pleats, and anywhere that looks loose and needs a bit of tailoring, as well as to close up toss pillows. To finish the stitch and keep it tight, stitch backwards into your last stitch a few times. Keep stitching along the length of the pleat. Your stitches would look like this really fancy diagram (without the fabric):Īfter you make a few stitches, pull the thread tight, sinching the folds together. ![]() Make a small 1/4″ stitch one one side of the pleat, and then on the other side of the pleat, meeting where the first stitch left off. Make a knot at one end of the thread and make your first stitch in the opposite direction to hide the knot in the pleat. You will probably want to match the colour of the fabric, but for perfect stitches it will not matter (and in fact it’s a pretty good test of your skill) because as the name implies, when done correctly, you will not be able to see the stitches. It is an important step for a tailored piece of furniture, so put away that hot glue gun, and learn how the pros do it!Īny long pleat will have to be closed to preserve the look of your upholstery work.įor blind stitching, you will need a small curved needle like these: and some heavy thread. Before there were supplies available for making upholstery quicker, all upholsterers used blind stitching to close seams on furniture. Another sewing spot where invisible thread comes in handy is when you are quilting. ![]() You may not want that situation to take place, so opting for invisible thread is a wise move. This is the style where you can’t keep the thread from displaying all of its glory. Knowing the art of blind stitching is crucial in upholstery. One sewing area that invisible thread is used in is the topstitching method. In a few of my recent posts, I have mentioned blind stitches. NEW!! Artisan Upholstery has a YouTube channel! ![]()
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